Banana Cantina Review in the Dining Out Guide

Written by Mark MacKay on August 7, 2006 11:23 AM | Permalink

Dear Gringa Gourmet,
Friends have graciously invited me to dinner at the restaurant of my choice in honor of my upcoming birthday. Can you suggest some place intimate and sophisticated, yet casual and unpretentious with a creative menu at reasonable prices? A Soon-to-be Sixty Bon Vivant

Dear BV,
Milestone anniversaries demand memorable culinary celebrations, which I can guarantee you will have at Bananacantina. Belying its name, this newly opened gem has a swanky contemporary feel and a warm, romantic ambiance, with sleek concrete and wrought iron tables, leather upholstered banquettes and chairs, appealing pomegranate and lime walls, soothing recorded jazz, and the magical glow of mirrored wall candles and dramatic reflecting metal globes, suspended from the cathedral ceiling.

The menu—identical at lunch and dinner–-is inspired, to say the least, offering daily drink, entree, appetizer and dessert specials in addition to several irresistible “standard” dishes. With selections such as Crab Ravioli in Basil Cream Sauce, Chorizo and Potato Relleno, Spanish Chicken Hash ($95 pesos), and Almond Crusted Shrimp Cakes/Fritters ($100), Bananacantina is a discriminating “Foodie’s” idea of heaven on earth.

I can personally recommend the Slow Roasted Achiote Pork ($70)—fork tender and delightfully piquant-- served with delicate corn custard. The Shimp Sushi ($65) is delicious and easily a meal in itself. Among the soup choices is a lovely Poblano Vichyssoise with Lime Cream ($60), which, though traditionally served cold, is equally delicious hot. Other options include a unique Garlic Soup with Crouton and Poached Egg, and Green Pozole.

Five salads and bruschetta with either mushroom or cheese salsa are additional possibilities for starters. Lighter fare includes several sandwiches, the most intriguing of which is a Prawn Clubhouse with Bacon, Roasted Red Peppers and Chiplote Mayo. Whether you’ve saved room or not, dessert is a must! Be forewarned, however, that one serving of either the luscious Banana Tacos or the Strawberry Napoleon (a veritable steal at $60 each) is enough for four serious postre lovers. Likewise, the wonderfully frothy lattes ($30), served steamy in huge bowl-size cups, are sure to sate java junkies in search of quantity as well as quality.

In addition to its creative cuisine, Bananacantina models attention to detail. Attractive preset tables welcome diners with artfully knotted hand-towel-sized cloth napkins adorning earthy charger-sized pottery plates. Complimentary flaky warm rolls (in lieu of the ubiquitous totopos and salsa) are served in a classy metal “boat” within minutes of being seated. The women’s baño offers fresh orange peel for a luxurious quick hand-rub or olfactory pick-me-up. And from the moment one mounts the stairs and steps into this cozy second-story find, to the time one leaves, Bananacantina’s gregarious and accommodating co-owner Debbie (or husband Mike during day-time hours) is ever-present to anticipate needs and enhance one’s dining experience.

Wines by the bottle ($275 to $550) include selections from Chile, California, Australia and Mexico. French champagne is also available for $1,100 pesos. By the glass, prices range from $35 to $65 for a Brut from Spain. Tasty two-for-one margaritas are available from noon, when the kitchen opens, until closing at 11:00pm --reason enough to visit Bananacantina—and enjoy its welcoming open-air ambiance and attentive service! How’s that for a birthday suggestion?

BANANACANTINA
Amapas 147 corner of Púlpito (above Choco Banana)
Romantic Zone
Wed-Mon 11:59am-11:00pm
Tel. (322) 222-2114
Cash Only

UPSIDE: Innovative cuisine. Generous servings. Reasonable prices. 2-for-1 Margaritas. To-die-for desserts. Welcoming owner. Uplifting ambiance.
DOWNSIDE: Cash only