Red Cabbage Review in the Cafe Guide
Enjoy this unique restaurant, by the Cuale river with a touch of authentic traditional mexican cuisine
Although at first seemingly remote to first-time visitors, The Red Cabbage is an easy and lovely walk from the Romantic Zone. The moment one arrives at El Repollo Rojo there is a sense of excitement, beginning with its black and red sign rimmed in twinkling white lights, reminiscent of a Hollywood marquee.
Inside the half-gate separating waiting diners from those already blissfully engaged in Repollo’s classic Mexican cuisine is a wonderfully eclectic décor, with an array of film star/theatre posters, autographed photos of celebrities. One complete wall is dedicated to Mexico’s renowned Frida Kahlo, many of whose favorite dishes are featured on the Red Cabbage’s menu. Owner Lola Bravo culled several of Frida’s personal favorites from a cookbook written by Frida’s granddaughter. Somehow, knowing you are enjoying the very same cuisine that Kahlo and her controversial life partner/artist Diego Rivera served to their creative literati friends makes one feel part of the “in-crowd.”
Once comfortably seated at one of the Café’s dozen tables for four, I momentarily imagine myself an invited guest at one of the couple’s Bohemian soirees, until the friendly mesero interrupts my fantasy to take my order. On a recent visit I begin my repast with a margarita on the rocks, served, not in stemware, but rather, traditionally in a thick squat blue glass.
After deciding on “Frida’s Meal,” a multi-course sampling of four items, which includes a glass of wine, all for $285 pesos, I continue to study the menu. It further sets the tone for a fun-filled evening with its photo of proprietor Lola holding a cabbage and sporting a towering Huichol crown. Even the paper placemats are designed to entertain, with their whimsical mini portraits of Kahlo balancing a red cabbage on top of her head, and brief reprinted customer testimonials/restaurant reviews, providing a tantalizing hint of what one can expect.
Shortly, the first course arrives—Peanut soup—a rich creamy purée pleasantly gritty with the texture of genuine ground cacahuates, and a palate-pleasing flavor. I munch on a thick slice of freshly toasted baguette drenched in butter, as I eagerly await the second of my four courses. Just as I have emptied the canasta de pan of its contents, my Chile en Nogada is served. The presentation is artful with its festive red, white and green hues. I savor the poblano pepper stuffed with a mixture of ground pork/beef, finely chopped almonds, cabbage, potatoes, carrots, onions, raisins and subtle spices, smothered in a decadent cold walnut cream sauce, and generously garnished with pomegranate seeds. The piquancy of the pepper combined with its rich cinnamon-flavored filling, and the sweet-tart juice of the pomegranate seeds.
My entrée, Pollo Pipián, is a tender chicken breast topped with a mild white sesame/almond/caper sauce. It is good, but after the Chile en Nogada, nothing can compare. In the interest of research I sample my husband’s Mole Poblano ($110 pesos). The sauce, which uses unsweetened chocolate as its base, (and is a home-made specialty created from 25 ingredients at The Red Cabbage), is a pungent, but tasty compliment to the chicken breast on which it is served, along with beans, rice and tortillas. I end my delightful dining experience with a slice of flan.
Because of the Café’s popularity with locals, expatriates, and tourists alike, reservations are recommended. The Red Cabbage is a smoke-free restaurant. Many vegetarian options are available. Customized cooking classes with Red Cabbage Chef par excellence Maria de Jesus Casillas (Chuy) can be arranged via e-mail (www.redcabbagecafe.com) or phone.
